Brower Top Hatch Incubator Manual
- Brower Top Hatch Incubator Manual Pdf
- Brower Top Hatch Incubator Reviews
- Brower Top Hatch Incubator For Sale
- Top Hatch Incubator
- Brower Top Hatch Incubator Th120
BROWER TOP HATCH(Made in USA- Houghton. Iowa) EGG INCUBATOR MODEL TH110 Unit is a Durable Hard Plastic Manual Swivel Type w/ Light& Fan used once& stored Holds approximately 46 chicken eggs. 90 pheasant eggs, 40 turkey or duck eggs. Or 118 quail eggs very good gently used condition. Review of the Brower Top Hatch Incubator- Its beauty is its simplicity! Hatching chicks is a tough job on the best of days. Man simulating nature has always been a challenge as the number of variables run into the thousands.
With this unit you can incubate 120 quail eggs 48 chicken or pheasant eggs 24 turkey eggs 16 goose eggs this BROWER TOP HATCH TH130 incubator is sealed in the original manufacturers packaging, which has never been opened. The 18 inch diameter egg tray sits on TOP of the base, which houses the turning motor and fan. The Top Hatch incubator by Brower is a good alternative to the styrofoam incubators. The base is dishwasher safe on the low-heat setting, so cleaning is really easy. This incubator has a built-in turning mechanism that allows the eggs to rotate freely within the incubator’s base, turning by about 20 degrees in alternating directions with each. Brower 846 farming parts - manufacturer-approved parts for a proper fit every time! We also have installation guides, diagrams and manuals to help you along the way!
Hatching chicks is a tough job on the best of days. Man simulating nature has always been a challenge as the number of variables run into the thousands. To mimic the natural hatching conditions of a real broody hen, poultry farmers have spent hours, days, and generations observing those moody, ornery feather dusters and collecting data to hand over to the engineers and manufacturers.
Personal ideas on shape, color, and design are usually up to the individual designer. These are usually broken down into two categories; industrial hatching and hobby hatching. Industrial hatching incubators are quite large and are designed to hatch out hundreds of chicks per unit, with a limited amount of human interaction. The electronics that run these units are top of the line, highly accurate and can be adjusted to specific calibrations. They also come with astonishing price tags, which should be as no surprise, as they are the backbone of the poultry business. They are certainly out of price range and scale for the backyard poultry family, hobby farmer, or small flock owner.The market is full of smaller scale egg incubators by numerous companies: Brinsea, Little Giant, Hova-Bator, GQF Manufacturing, RCom, Brower, Yosooa, Farm Innovators, Incuview, Arksen, Fall Harvest, and on and on. There are of course the homemade incubators and the no name generic brands. Whether they are still air incubators or move the warm air with a small fan; are fully automatic, or manual; inexpensive or high end; or hold 6 eggs or 48, their basic parameters are all the same. They keep the set eggs at a relatively constant 99.5'F and at 40-50% humidity for the needed 21-25 days.
I have a small homesteading flock, which I classify as 12-24 birds. I currently have 15, but have comfortable room in the Station coop for 20-25. I would like to add a few more hens and in the future I will have the need to replace the older ladies. I certainly prefer to use a broody hen, but honestly, they go broody at the most inconvenient times and have a need to either be VERY protective of their eggs and young, or space needs to be made for them to brood and raise the young around the other flock mates. I see broody hens as the easy route for more offspring. Kind of like grand parenting, play with 'em, sugar and wind them up, and send them home. A broody hen does all the work. You just have to sit back and watch.
I have chicken breeds that are extremely uncommon for this area. In that vein, they are in high demand for showing and for their colorful egg production.
I could hardly ask a broody hen to sit on 24 eggs, and then snatch the day old chicks from her. An incubator is the logical replacement. (Clarification: we'd have to snatch the chicks because we've had neighbors ask us to help them start a flock. Otherwise, the mother hen does a great job of raising and protecting her brood. -Doc)
Anyone that knows me, knows that I do not part with money readily and without doing a great deal of research. I knew what I wanted and what I didn't. I wanted it to be able to hold at least 24 eggs, be easy to clean, easy to use, and wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg. I was not impressed with the incubators readily available at the two local farm supply stores.
Both were Styrofoam, which can be notorious bacterial Petri dishes if not carefully cleaned and sanitized. I worried that the inexpensive materials would leach over into the electronics portion of the product and accuracy and stability would be an issue. Both were quite inexpensive, less than $50, and could be upgraded for more money to add egg turners, trays, fans, and hygrometers. By the time you add all of those goodies, you may as well go up into the next tier of products.
The next tier are those seen in many poultry keepers catalogues. They are made from plastic and can range in price from $75 dollars to over $400. Even within this they can be broken down into what items are included. The most simple of the models have digital thermostatic controls or manual temperature controls, but you are turning the eggs on your own. Every time you open your incubator, you loose both heat and humidity. I was NOT interested in turning eggs three times a day. Increased handling of the eggs increased the MIS-handling of the eggs. Not only can they be accidentally dropped, but the humid warm conditions of the incubator are a breeding ground for any yuckies that are found naturally ON the egg and can be transferred to YOU, or bacterium that you introduce TO the eggs from your own hands. You'll be washing your hands and equipment enough when you candle your eggs, turning them multiple times daily, simply increases the risk.
That brings us to temperature and humidity control. I had the need to be able to monitor it and adjust it. As much as I love technology, as we all do, I simply do not trust the accuracy of items on the market. The more complicated the machine, the more likely something will go wrong, and the way things are assembled today, you cannot simply replace the part that has gone bad. Add to that the cheap manufacturing processes we all deal with, and a digital console that SAYS it is holding 99.5 and it is really 103', and you've got a problem. We've all encountered it in our daily lives. I'd rather not deal with it when little fluff butt lives are in the balance.
That brings us to size. The need to hatch a varying number of eggs was a must. Most incubators that held 24 eggs and more were little more than glorified, cramped, electric egg cartons that tipped the eggs from side to side to rotate them. Filled with eggs, there was little room for chicks to move once they hatched out. Newly hatched, exhausted, clumsy chicks were forced to climb and trip other hatching eggs while they dried, before they were removed to the brooding box. And even with the expensive models, there were upgrades to be had for money.
In extensive searches, I came across several models that were possible and then set out to read reviews that were posted and then even more reviews on backyardchickens.com. Just when I was about to settle, I stumbled upon a little known model, the THI-30 Brower Top Hatch. Now I have seen their old farm models on Craigslist, the massive metal drum looked quite industrial.
| From a Very OLD Sears Catalog |
Once I found out that the giant mystery drum on Craigslist was called a Brower, I did a search. Low and behold they still made them. Now they are made of modern materials. The drum is a heat resistant heavy duty plastic that can not only be taken off the turner, but can be totally submerged in water for cleaning, and even run through the dishwasher for sterilizing. The base unit holds the temperature control, the electric fan motor and the electrics for the electric light. The electric light screws into the base and is surrounded by a conical plastic guard. The drum slides down atop the light and the base unit, and the groove in the bottom of the drum is aligned with the turning wheel on the base. The screen liner is then set over the bulb and into the drum base, and the turning spokes go on top of that. The lid is a clear plastic that makes looking in on the eggs, the hatching process, and the chicks easy. It also has 4 holes which can be left open for circulation or closed to hold heat and humidity. The heat of the unit is supplied by a 60W standard candelabra light bulb.
The temperature control is easy enough. You must plan ahead at least two days. I start the unit up and let it run and stabilize. I added 1.5 cups of HOT water into the drum base and turned the unit on. I needed to work my way up to 99.5'F. To do this you turn the control knob slowly CLOCKWISE to increase the heat, and counterclockwise to lower the heat. The knob controls the thermostat. When the thermostat reaches the temperature it is set at, it switches OFF the light. When the temperature drops below the set temperature, it turns ON the light and keeps it on until the set temperature is reached, and then it switches OFF again. While the temperature is in equilibrium, the light will flash ON and OFF continuously. If the light is OFF and stays OFF, either your power is OFF OR your bulb has burned off. My until is still using the same bulb after 7 weeks of continuous use. (I still have spare bulbs in the house.)
Overall it is an outstanding little-known gem in the world of modern incubators. Sure, it had some negative reviews online, but as we all know, you are more likely to hear from those that have a complaint than those that sing praise. As compared to other incubators, the proportion of negative reviews is actually lower with the Brower. Customer service is also outstanding. Parts can be had, if needed, instead of buying a whole new unit. Questions are also promptly answered. So let's go on with the good and the bad- what I could change if I could wave a magic wand.
Good
It is easily set up.
Brower Top Hatch Incubator Manual Pdf
It cleans and sanitizers easily.
Parts are available if needed.
Great customer service.
You know it's on if you see the light.
Gentle rolling turning of the eggs, just like a mother hen.
Easy to fill water reservoir.
Simple easy to understand comprehensive instruction.
Holds up to 48 hen eggs.
Cost less than $150. qcsupply.com
Takes up little space.
Great viewing top.
Can also be used as a brooder area for a short time. (Has tall sides.)
Mesh keeps chicks away from the water.
VERY quiet. (My hard drive on my computer is louder than the unit.)
You have control over the temperature, which allows you to run a cool down phase if you wish.
Depending on which side of the turning spokes go in first, you can turn and hatch small or large eggs.
What I would change...
I think all units would benefit from coming WITH an insulation blanket. I made mine with a long narrow strip of bubble wrap, a narrow long strip of industrial ironing board fabric, and two long elastic bands to hold it all on. This allows the heat produced by the bulb to be held at a more consistent temperature for a longer period of time. It did make a HUGE difference.
The temperature control knob is really hard to see. A black knob surrounded by a black base, with a simple cross slot for a screw driver becomes invisible. When you do learn where it is (under the drum, in the shade, on the side) since the knob is a solid color with no markings, you have NO IDEA how far you have turned it to help narrow down the temperature setting. Small turns can make a big temperature change.
To solve this, I marked the knob, which is flush with the unit, with a small bit of chalk, rubbed on with my finger. This allowed me to see that the dot was, say, at the 3 o'clock position, and I just turned it to the 9 o'clock position. When this set of chicks is out of the incubator I will mark a dot with a dab of fingernail polish or whiteout or white paint for a permanent reference point.
The cone doesn't go high enough on the bulb. They say chicks cannot get to it. Mine did. After hatch, she stepped up on the turning rails and caught her balance by tossing her wing out against the bulb. I would make the cone taller.
Next hatching, I'm going to try using a small tomato paste can, with both ends off, and vent holes punched in it. This will also help with the horizontal light pollution that is inherent with this design.
The turning spokes. I wish they came out for lock down and hatching. They aren't a concern during lock down, but at hatching, the stumbling new chicks don't pick up their feet to walk. Their feet go under the rails and then they trip. How they don't break their legs, I'll never know. IT DOES come OUT. You MUST remove it to clean the empty drum before storage and the next hatch.
HOWEVER, it does NOT come out easily. I would NEVER take it out with eggs IN the drum. You just have to wrestle too much to fight it out.
The temperature holds relatively steady. I had a problem with my first base (which was IMMEDIATELY resolved with customer service). The temperature spike to 104' and I lost two dozen eggs. I noticed the light hadn't turned off for a while, and I have no idea how long it was like that before I caught it. Luckily, these were my own eggs, of which I have plenty to start over.
The light is your heat source. A good thing and a visual validation to the operation, or not, of your unit. It can, and WILL drive you insane. We originally had it in the dining room, which is next to the living room. The constant blinking in the corner of my eye drove me batty. First I tried putting low tack black painters tape around the outside edge. I still had light blinking on the ceiling, but at least it wasn't in my eyes, at eye level. I finally decided to move it to our office, which is still high traffic for peep peeking, but out of sight. ( I am keeping my eyes open for a red 60w candelabra base bulb for after hatching.)
The light bulb is also advertised as being able to be used for candling. Don't bother. The amount of light pollution around the bulb blows your night vision. In fact, I put a circle of foil to protect my eyes from the bright direct light of the bulb when looking in on the eggs. I use a cold light LED flashlight with a bit of pipe insulation around the end. The soft insulation creates a light seal around the egg, focusing all the light in the egg. This is ridiculously important with Maran eggs.
Brower Top Hatch Incubator Reviews
| New Hatchling making good use of the thermometer/hygrometer. |
The unit comes with a small thermometer. Throw it away. It is simply wired to the card. Mine slipped easily up and down several millimeters so who KNOWS what the temperature actually was. Temperature and humidity are something that EVERY incubator has issues with. Not holding them, or obtaining them, but MEASURING THEM. The margin error in these products is far too high. I am thrilled that this unit actually doesn't have either built in! That sounds odd, but it actually makes sense. When you purchase a unit with a thermometer, or hygrometer, or both, built in, you EXPECT them to be dead accurate. More than likely they are off quite a bit. But you are stuck with them. So what could be seen as a negative, I believe is a positive. You can quite readily find hygrometers and thermometers in stores and online, and testing them and calibrating them is quite easy and directions are readily found online.
See there is nothing major there. Nothing that cannot easily be worked around. There are much larger complaints about other units, which can silently fail, stop supplying water, stop tipping eggs, or give false digital readings.
So here's the big questions:
Would I buy it again? Would I recommend it to others?
YES! In the blink of an eye and without hesitation!!! Its ease of use, ease of cleaning, visibility and maintenance just make egg hatching easy! And you cannot beat the price for what it returns to you.
| Our French Blue Copper Marans |
Note: It is recommended that you operate the still-air incubator with a small quantity of inexpensive eggs to be assured of your operating procedure and the performance of the incubator, before attempting to hatch large quantities of eggs or expensive eggs. If you are using any other kind of an incubator besides still air, then follow the instructional manual of the incubator.
Location
The location of the machine is important to successful operation. A room temperature of 70-80 degrees F. is ideal, and fresh air without drafts is necessary. A well-ventilated basement room is often just right. Be sure no direct sunlight strikes the incubator and that it sets level.
An incubator or brooder is designed to bring normal room temperature to the desired temperature. Room temperature of 60 degrees F. or below will reduce the temperature in the incubator. Room temperature changes of 10 degrees or more will change the temperature in the incubator. The change is more pronounced below a temperature of 70 degrees F.
Setting Up the Incubator
After removing the incubator, notice that the top has the windows, heater and thermostat. Place the bottom on the table. The thermostat adjusting screw and wing nut are stored beneath the brass wafer in the bottom of the incubator. Insert finger in slot and lift wafer to remove these items. See Thermostat Operation to install these items in the thermostat.
Some models of the incubator have printed on the rim of the top and bottom, the word Front to designate the front and back of the incubator.
Other models have two notches in one side of the rim of both the top and bottom that when matched up will permit the exit of the electric cord when using a turner. The side with the two notches is the back of the incubator.
Place the wire floor in the bottom of the incubator so that it lays flat.
Thermometer Instructions
Remove the thermometer from its box and place it in center of right side of the bottom, against rim and facing towards the center. This is the correct position when using an automatic turner and can be seen from the window. Adjust the thermometer stand so it can be seen from the window.
Place thermometer on floor of incubator where it can be read through the window. When using the automatic turner, the thermometer must be placed on the right side.
Remove the thermometer from the box and bend the metal stand so that the bend in the flange is 1/8' above the floor when sitting on the floor . This may be varied slightly for easier reading through the window of the incubator.
Thermostat Operation
Put wing nut on the adjusting screw about 3/4 of the way. Put adjusting screw through center hole of the top and screw into the thermostat about 1/2 inch. Screw wafer onto end of Adjusting Screw until snug. The incubator is now ready to operate.
Plug electric cord into electrical outlet. Turn thermostat adjusting screw clockwise until pilot light goes out (you may hear switch click).
Turn adjusting screw four complete turns counter clockwise. The pilot light will come on. Any time the pilot light is on, the heater and fan (if you have one) will be on. Any time the pilot light is off, the heater will be off.
As incubator warms up, the thermostat wafer will expand, turning off pilot light and heater.
When pilot light goes out, check the temperature. If it has not reached 100 degrees F., turn adjusting screw counter clockwise one or two full turns. (To help in regulating, always leave adjusting screw pointing straight up, down, left or right. After each setting tighten the wing nut, so the adjusting screw will stay in place. For fine adjustment make corrections 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn). Permit time for incubator to heat up until light goes out.
If temperature has not reached 100.5 degrees F., repeat process until 100.5 degrees F. is reached. Fine adjust thermostat to hold as close to 100.5 degrees F. as possible. If it does not hold exactly on 100.5 degrees F., regulate so that it turns on and off the same above and below 100.5 degrees F.
Remember - Temperature setting can vary as much as 1/2 degree above and 1/2 degree below your desired temperature.
Important - Please Read Carefully
Please read the instruction on Thermostat Operation again. Some users will heat the incubator with thermostat wafer too far from the thermostat switch, over heating the incubator (above 110 degrees F.), which can break the thermometer and damage the thermostat wafer.
Temperature
The Thermometer will always be sitting on the wire floor of the incubator. In a still air incubator, the closer you get to the top of the incubator, the higher the actual temperature.
We have worked out scientifically the proper thermometer reading for different size eggs, when on their side on the floor and when they are in the automatic turner. When setting eggs of different sizes, you will have to use an average half way between temperature in the chart below.
| Operating Temperature for Manually Turned Eggs Laying on Wire Floor (Do not use these temperature when using an automatic turner). | |
| Quail Eggs | 100.5 degrees F |
| Bantam and Pheasant Size Eggs | 100 degrees F |
| Chicken and Other Large Eggs (including Goose) | 100.5 degrees F |
| Operating Temperature for Eggs in Automatic Turner | Summer | Winter* |
| Quail Eggs | 99 degrees | 98 degrees |
| Bantam and Pheasant Size Eggs | 98 degrees | 97 degrees |
| Chicken and Other Large Eggs | 97 degrees | 96 degrees |
| Duck Eggs | 95 degrees | 94 degrees |
(Do Not Set Goose Eggs in Turner)
*Winter operation requires lowering operating temperature to prevent overheating top of eggs. Use these temperature throughout the entire incubation period. Three days before eggs are to hatch, remove the eggs from the turner, lay them on their side on the wire floor, and increase temperature two full degrees above your operating temperature for hatching.
When the turner is removed for hatching, turn adjusting screw one full turn counterclockwise. The motor on turner produces heat and this should correct this situation. Fine adjust after temperature stabilizes.
Caution - About half way through incubation process, you will note an increase in temperature, and you will have to adjust thermostat down nearly one full turn. This is normal and is caused by the embryos forming into chicks and generating heat. Check temperature daily.
Regulate the temperature for desired setting and be sure it holds this temperature for two to three hours before putting eggs in incubator. If using a turner, regulate incubator with the turner in the incubator and plugged into an electrical outlet.
When you put cold eggs in incubator, it can take three hours or more for eggs to warm up and temperature to stabilize at the setting you had before adding the eggs. Also, when you open the incubator, it can take up to two hours for temperature to stabilize.
If chicks hatch out a day early, it indicates temperature was a little too high, so on next setting lower temperature by 0.5 degrees for entire incubation period. If chick hatch a day late, raise temperature 0.5 degrees for entire incubation period.
Select and Grade The Eggs
Eggs must be fresh and fertile. Don't use eggs over 15 days old. Eggs being saved for hatching should be protected from freezing. Discard small or poorly shaped eggs and any with cracked or thin, porous shells. Set only eggs that are clean and of uniform size.
Setting and Turning Eggs
Manual Egg Turning - Place eggs on their side with small end pointed slightly down. Do not overcrowd the eggs.
The eggs should be turned three times a day. Turning the eggs is best done by removing about a dozen from the center and rolling the rest of them toward the center. Place the palms of your hands on the eggs and roll them around until you are sure all have been turned, and then put the eggs taken from the center around the outer edge. Use care in turning eggs to avoid shocks or jars that may rupture the blood vessels of the germ. Do not leave eggs standing on end. Keep them flat, pushing the pointed ends down a little with the hand. With a soft lead pencil, put a small 'X' on one side of egg and 'O' on the other side so you can be sure of turning the eggs.
Automatic Egg Turning - Place turner on bottom of incubator with the motor side to the back of the incubator (rim of bottom with notches is the back). Slide turner as close as possible to the front rim of bottom of incubator. Be sure the turner sits flat on the wire floor.
Use a serrated kitchen knife to cut out the notch in the corner by the motor. This will permit the electric cord from the motor to exit from the incubator.
Run the electric cord through the notch and press to the bottom of the notch.
(Do not set goose eggs in turner)
Note: This Turner runs very slowly--only one revolution in 4 hours.
Moisture
Moisture in an incubator prevents excessive drying out of the natural moisture in the egg. It is impossible to give any set rule for supplying moisture. If the incubator is operated in a damp cellar or in a room with considerable natural moisture, then it may not be necessary to supply artificial moisture. If operating in a dry climate or in dry room, moisture will be needed. The important thing to watch is the air space in the egg. When testing eggs for fertility, note the size of the air space. If the air space is too large, provide moisture.
Moisture in the incubator is controlled by putting water in the small inner trough of the bottom. The small trough by itself will increase the humidity to take care of most climates. If you live in an extremely dry climate you may need moisture in the larger outer trough instead of the small trough. During time of hatching, you need higher humidity that is usually provided from moisture of hatched chicks drying off. Check and fill water trough twice a week.
Important: In the winter time, three days before time to hatch, put water in both troughs of bottom to compensate for extra dryness of air.
Special Notice: Spray duck and goose eggs thoroughly with water twice each week, and spray at least three times a week during the last ten days.
Hatching
Three days before total incubation and hatching time, discontinue turning eggs.
The automatic turner must be removed from the incubator or the eggs must be moved to a separate incubator for hatching. Do not attempt to hatch eggs while the turner is in the incubator, as the slow turning egg racks could crush the chicks.
Lay eggs on wire floor with small end pointed slightly down.
Plastic Vent Plugs
The front vent plug (just below label) is used to regulate humidity and the back vent plug (by electric cord) is used when there is excessive humidity, as follows:
When incubator is over 75 percent of capacity, remove the front vent plug one week before hatch date. The day that chicks start to hatch, remove the back vent plug. If incubator is over 90 percent of capacity and contains large chicks, it may be necessary to prop one side of the incubator top up about 1/8 inch to get chicks dry. Leave side propped up just long enough for most of moisture to clear on windows, but no longer than one hour at a time.
When incubator is from 25 to 75 percent of capacity, remove the front vent plug the day chicks start to hatch.
When there is moisture condensed on the windows, remove front vent plug.
Be sure to replace vent plugs before next setting of eggs.
If vent plug should be lost, close the vent hole with scotch tape.
Chicks may be removed 24 hours after they start to hatch. Extremely wet chicks should be left in incubator to dry.
Plan to remove chicks once a day, as every time incubator is opened, warm moist air escapes. Avoid chilling of wet chicks.
Brower Top Hatch Incubator For Sale
Some chicks may be late in hatching, so you can leave remaining unhatched eggs up to two days longer.
Brooding
When chicks are removed from the incubator they must have a place that is warm and dry. A brooder should have one section that is heated, with a temperature of 95 degrees F (for the first week) and an unheated section for exercise. Food and water should be partially in the heated area. Temperature should be reduced five degrees each week until it is down to 70 degrees F. Font real madrid 2013 ttf. Some types of chicks need a temperature around 70 degrees F. until they are nearly grown.
Incubator top is not satisfactory as a brooder, as there is not sufficient heat and the chicks may peck it to pieces.
Feed and water chicks at once. Check with your feed dealer for proper feed for type of chicks you have hatched.
Specials Points To Remember
Do not bother the regulator unless it is absolutely necessary. The working of the machine may be affected if the regulator is tampered with excessively.
If the machine does not heat, carefully investigate and see if you have all connections properly made.
Do not overcrowd the eggs.
Top Hatch Incubator
Keep the eggs clean. Perspiration from the hands or any sort of grease stops up the pores of the shells.
Brower Top Hatch Incubator Th120
Clean you incubator after each hatch with bleach water. Scrubbing of moisture troughs may cause leaks.